How to make folds at the neck of a blouse. Tucks

This dress is perfect for working in the office. And if you wear high heels with the dress, then you can easily go to the cinema or theater in this elegant dress.

The dress shown in the photo fits the figure quite tightly, so an increase of 3 cm should be given for the freedom of fit around the circumference of the chest when constructing the pattern for the base of the dress.

Dress pattern modeling

Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with pleats along the neckline

Rice. 2. Modeling the bodice of a dress with folds along the neckline

Rice. 3. Dress cut details

How to model a pattern and sew a dress

Close the dart on the chest of the dress. Move the dart along the cut line.

Model the raglan sleeve of the dress, as shown in drawing 2. The raglan sleeve of the dress is sewn into the armhole of the dress, not reaching 5 cm from the bottom point of the armhole of the dress.

The front darts of the dress and the back darts of the dress are not fully stitched, forming small counter pleats.

Separately, 2 facings for the sleeves of the dress are cut out of satin, 4 cm wide, which are stitched over the sleeves of the dress along the edge.

The collar of the dress is cut out of satin using a bias thread.

Cut out the dresses

From the main fabric, cut out the following parts:

The upper part of the front half of the dress - 1 piece. with fold
The lower part of the front half of the dress is 1 piece. with fold
The upper part of the back half of the dress is 2 pieces.
The lower part of the back half of the dress is 2 pieces.
The front part of the sleeve of the dress is 2 pieces.
The back of the sleeve of the dress - 2 pieces.

Cut out from the atlas:

Dress collar - 1 piece.
Sewing dress sleeves - 2 children. with fold

Description of work:

On the front half of the dress, baste and stitch the darts. Baste and sew darts on the back halves of the dress. Place darts on the front top of the dress.

Baste and stitch the side seams of the dress, shoulder seams of the sleeves of the dress. Fold up the bottom of the sleeves of the dress at the seam allowance. Fold the satin facings on both sides, baste and stitch along the bottom of the sleeves of the dress. Thread the sleeves into the armholes of the dress up to the marks.

Finish the seams of the dress with an overlocker. Cut the edges along the armholes to 0.5 cm, process them cut from lining fabric. Iron the facing to the wrong side.

Sew a collar into the neck of the dress, fold the collar in half, stitch along the short edges, turn right side out, fold in the open edge, baste, and stitch close to the seam. Fold the allowances at the bottom of the dress to the wrong side and hand-baste with a blind seam. Hand baste the sleeve allowances of the dress with a hidden seam.

For the office and shopping - with a colorful summer skirt.
Back length approx. 70 cm.

You will need:

crepe de chine width 145 cm: size 34 - 1.85 m, size 36 - 1.90 m, size 38 - 1.95 m, sizes 40, 42 - 2.05 m, size 44 - 2.10 m
interlining G 785 0.15 m wide 90 cm
7 buttons sewing thread.

Besides:

silk paper for transferring patterns from a pattern sheet
pencil
paper scissors
tape measure
tailor's pins
tailor's chalk and "magic" tailor's chalk
cutting scissors
small craft scissors
copy paper burda
copy wheel for pattern transfer
sewing machine needle
hand sewing needle.

Place the silk paper on the pattern sheet and pin. Trace the pattern pieces in your size along the corresponding contour lines and don’t forget about the markings and inscriptions. On part 1, the loop marks are placed for size 34. For sizes 36-44, put the loop marks again (see step 12). On parts 1 and 2, fold arrow marks are drawn for size 34. For sizes 36−44, fold arrow marks are drawn according to the pattern lines.

Extra tip: blouse size is determined by chest circumference (size 34 = 80 cm, size 36 = 84 cm, size 38 = 88 cm, size 40 = 92 cm, size 42 = 96 cm, size 44 = 100 cm).

Crepe de Chine 145 cm wide Sizes 34-38

Sizes 40-44

Layout plan

The layout plan shows how to arrange the paper pattern pieces onto the fabric. Pin the paper pattern pieces.

Shelf 2x
Backrest with fold 1x
Front sleeve 2x
Elbow part of sleeve 2x
Stitching the neck of the shelf* 2x
Back neck facing with fold* 1x

* = Also cut out the parts from the gasket - see point 2.

Step 1. Cutting, sizes 34−38

Fold the fabric in half with the right side facing inward. Place all the details of the paper pattern on the fabric folded in half according to the layout plan. Pin it. Around the details of the paper pattern, mark the allowances with tailor's chalk: for the hem of the bottom of the blouse and the bottom of the sleeves - 2 cm, allowances for the edge cuts are not provided, for the remaining cuts and for the seams - 1.5 cm. Cut out the details. For sizes 40-44, place the paper pattern pieces on the fabric according to the layout plan and cut out with allowances.

Step 2. Non-woven fabric g 785

Fold the gasket in half with the adhesive side facing inward. Place parts 5 and 6 on top and pin. Draw 1.5 cm wide allowances around the paper pattern pieces and cut out the pieces. Iron the interlining from the wrong side of the corresponding cut parts, setting the iron thermostat to the “silk” mode and holding it in one place for about 8 seconds.

Step 3. Seam lines and markings

Fold the parts duplicated with the gasket right sides together and pin them together. Pin the paper pattern pieces to them. Transfer the contours of the pattern pieces (seam and bottom lines), as well as all drawn lines, with the exception of the grain lines, to the wrong side of the cut pieces using a copy wheel and burda copy paper (see detailed instructions on the paper packaging). Transfer the mid-front lines, alignment lines, folds and folds to the front side of the cut pieces using large running stitches.

Step 4. Iron the hem

Turn the longitudinal section of each one-piece hem with a shelf along the fold line to the wrong side, baste and iron. Then turn the double edging to the wrong side along the fold line of the edging. Iron it. Don't baste the hem yet.

Step 5: Folds

On each shelf on the front side, fold and sweep both small folds in the direction of the arrow marks, without securing the hem. Place and baste the large fold in the direction of the arrow mark without securing the hem. Turn the side cut of the shelf to the wrong side along the fold line of the fold, iron the fold to a length of 5 cm, and lay it out. On the back, place and sweep the folds in the direction of the arrow marks.

Step 6. Side seams and bottom sleeve seams

Place the shelves on the back, right side to right side, and pin the side sections. Place the front parts of the sleeves on the elbow parts of the sleeves, pin the lower sections of the sleeves. Sew the seams, from the marked lines of the lower edges of the stitch, lay them diagonally to the sides. Cut each seam allowance to 1 cm wide and stitch together. Press the side seam allowances to the front, and the bottom sleeve seam allowances to the back.

Step 7. Hem the bottom

Fold the bottom of the ribs forward again. Iron the hem allowance for the bottom of the blouse to the wrong side, turn it up to a width of 1 cm and stitch to the edge. Then turn the lining back to the wrong side.

Step 8. Sew in the sleeves

Pin each sleeve to the armhole, right side to right side, aligning the side seam of the blouse with the bottom seam of the sleeve and cross mark 4 with control mark 3. Sew in the sleeve. Cut the seam allowances to a width of 7 mm and overcast them together. Press the seam allowances onto the back from the top to the beginning of the rounding of the armhole. Pin the fold of the side fold of the front (step 5) to the sleeve alignment line.

Step 9. Top seams of sleeves, hem of the bottom of sleeves

Place the shelves on the back with the front side to the front side, fold the sleeves lengthwise with the front side inward. Pin the top edges of the sleeves. Stitch. Cut each seam allowance to a width of 7mm, overcast together and press back. Iron the hem allowance for the bottom of the sleeves to the wrong side, turn them up to a width of 1 cm and topstitch.

Step 10. Stitching the neckline

Pin the shoulder sections of the front neck facings together with the shoulder sections of the back neck facings, right side to right side (control mark 6). Stitch. Press seam allowances. Stitch the inner edge of the neck facing. On the edges of the border, turn it again along the fold lines to the front side and pin it to the neckline.

Step 11. Stitch the neckline

Pin the neck facing to the neckline, right side to right side, aligning the shoulder seams of the facing with the top seams of the sleeves. The ends of the neck facing lie on the edges. Sew it in. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, make notches in the rounded areas, and cut the allowances at the corners diagonally. Turn the facing of the neckline and hem to the wrong side, iron the edges. Sew the sides according to the markings, securing the edges. Sew the neck facing to the upper seam allowances of the sleeves.

Step 12. Loops

For size 34, on the right shelf, use “magic” tailor’s chalk to mark the stitches according to the markings. For sizes 36-44, place the top loop mark at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the neckline, and the bottom loop mark at a distance of 11.5 cm from the bottom edge of the blouse. Mark the remaining 5 stitches at equal intervals. Sew over the loops. Sew buttons to the left shelf according to the loops.

Photo: Photo: Jan Schmiedel (4), U2/Uli Glasemann (1). Illustrations: Elke Traier-Schäfer, magazine
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva

When modeling various styles of dresses and blouses, they often use the transfer of the chest dart into the neckline. This technique allows you to get beautiful folds or gathers along the neckline of the dress. In this lesson we will introduce you to possible options for such modeling, which you can perform using any ready-made basic dress pattern. And if you don’t have it, we offer it. You can also build it yourself according to your own measurements, following simple instructions.

Transferring the chest dart into the neckline into pleats

Divide the neckline of the front half of the product in half. From the top of the bust dart, draw a line to the intended point. Cut the pattern along the modeling line and along one side of the bust dart.

Close the chest dart - align it on the sides and glue it together. Round the open area along the neckline of a dress or blouse according to the pattern. Place the excess fabric generated during the modeling process into a fold or dart, depending on the model of the dress or blouse.

Rice. 1. Transferring the chest dart to the neckline

One of the options for such modeling is to transfer the chest dart into a fold towards the center of the front. To do this, draw a modeling line from the top of the chest dart to the center of the front and cut the pattern along this line and along one side of the chest dart. Close the chest dart, fold the opened dart into the fold.

Rice. 2. Transferring the chest dart into a fold in the center of the neckline

Converting the chest dart into the neckline into gathers or tucks

As mentioned above, when transferring the chest dart to the neckline, there are several ways to design the neckline of the product - folds, gathers, tucks. One of the simpler options is to assemble at the neck. Move the chest dart into the neckline as shown in Fig. 1, decorate the excess fabric with gathers or pintucks (the front cut detail is shown in Fig. 3b).

Sketch of a model with assembly at the neck

In Fig. 3 a-b shows the details of the cut of the front of the product with a fold along the neck (3a) and with gathering along the neck (3b).

Rice. 3 a-b. Details of the cut of the front of the dress with a pleat and gathering at the neckline

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Blouses with pleats from the neck- at the height of fashion. The presented blouse has two side one-sided pleats and one central bow pleat. The central bow pleat at the front is not secured by the neck seam. It freely goes around the edge of the neck and is fixed on the wrong side of the product.

Blouse drawing

The model is made on a drawing of the basis of a shoulder product with a straight silhouette.

Enlarge the neck according to the model. Transfer the chest dart solution to the neckline.

Along the midline, widen the front by 6 cm to obtain a bow fold.

Extend the allowance of the bow fold upward and decorate its upper cut with a smooth line. Draw a line along which the elongated part of the bow fold allowance will go around the edge of the neck of the product (Ill. 1).

Connect the sides of the chest dart, draw the facings of the front and back neck; copy them from the drawing.

Mark the center front line on the garment and facing.

Cutting out a blouse

Place the hinged loop on the seam allowance along the middle line of the back and stitch the loop on the machine so that the stitching line is shifted inside the allowance by 2 mm relative to the edge line of the fastener in the finished form (Fig. 7).

Finish the shoulder sections with a linen double seam: fold the front and back with the right sides facing out and sew the shoulder sections with a seam 3 mm wide (ill. 8).

First iron the seams, then fold the parts along the stitch line with the right sides inward and lay the second lines at a distance of 5 mm from the first lines (Fig. 9). Press the seams to the back.

Pin the chest darts in the form of folds and secure the seam allowances by sewing stitches on the machine along the seam allowance (Fig. 10).

Place the neck facing on the front side of the product, face down, aligning the cuts, and pin (Fig. 11).

Stitch the neckline of the product and the back neckline (ill. 12).

Trim the seam allowances to a width of 3-4 mm (ill. 13) and iron onto the neck facing (ill. 14).

Stitch the neckline seam to the edge along the facing, not reaching the upper ends of the back fastener 3-4 cm (ill. 15).

Fold the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seam and iron (ill. 16). Sew the inner edge of the facing to the shoulder seams of the product.

Fold the product along the center line of the front with the wrong side inward and sew the bow fold, laying a line at a distance of 6 cm from the fold (ill. 17).

Iron the bow fold in the stitching area (Fig. 18). Place a fold and secure it (Fig. 19).

Fold the extended part of the bow fold allowance to the wrong side of the product and sew the edges of the allowance to the neck facing (ill. 20).

Sew the button in accordance with the hinged loop on the edge of the back fastener (Fig. 21). The blouse is ready!

Modeling lessons are good, but it’s much more useful not to show how I can do it, but to tell it so that everyone can do it! Today’s letter from Ekaterina is good feedback for me:

“I kindly ask you to explain how to connect the folds. when I join the first fold it produces excess fabric, I can't fold the second except to make a hem. but I don’t want an undercut, that’s not it, and there isn’t one in this dress, so there is a way to do without undercuts, I want to understand it. I really ask you to help!”

Remember the article about But is everything so simple in assembling this drapery?
I tried to figure out the layout and answer the question: “how to do it?”

How to collect and process folds at the neckline?

I started with a large-scale pattern and unmodeled the toy base, as in the article:

I received an unfolded pattern and applied the contours on the fabric in chalk. To make the work easier, I did not add seams to the armhole and neckline, because I did not intend to process them. And of course, do it according to all the rules.

For clarity, I marked the connecting points of future folds with colored knots. First we connect the blue ones, then the green ones, then the pink ones.

So, I connected the first dots. We don't need any cuts or trims. But it is simply necessary to process the allowances beautifully! I trimmed the excess allowances that would prevent the second fold from forming. And if I were sewing a dress not for a doll, but for a person, I would definitely overcast and secure with a stitch the area of the allowance that would hide under fold number two.

The second fold will hide the seam allowance of the first fold. But even here I want to do it beautifully and “grab” this allowance number one with a line into the depth of the fold.

Yes, you will have to tinker and make decisions based on location. Both the direction of the folds and their depth can be different, so I can only give general recommendations.

In the end it should look something like this. The neckline is treated either with a lining or

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